Kelly-in-Kenya: There are Luo Men and then there is THE Luo Man...

This is what I have learned over the last couple of days, culminating with my pilgrimage to the home of Mama Sarah Obama, or “Granny”.

The whole crew with Granny! (Edward, me, Opondo, Calvin, Randie, The Lady Herself, & Bill)

I spent a few days in SVH-Ugenya, which is in Luoland in the western province of Kenya. I was repeatedly frustrated by my meetings with the notoriously chauvinistic and big-headed Luo men; reminding them each time introductions were made that I existed, hearing my ideas acknowledged only when a man repeated them, listening to discussions on the merits of polygamy and wife inheritance…at one point Randie and I had to distribute the refreshments at a meeting because it didn’t occur to any of the men to get up and take a soda, and god forbid a meeting start without the beverages distributed. I bit my tongue on many occasions. One man in particular, Chris Opondo who sits on the SOTENI Kenya board eventually won me over with his charm and we were able to have a good natured discussion on the pros and cons of dowries, but it took about 3 days for me to be able to laugh at his controversial jokes (“Edward, if I were you I would try very hard to win Kelly’s heart – she would be free!”).

Meeting the adopted grandmother of President Obama, however, reminded me that some Luo men are more than tolerable and in fact the USA is lucky to have one as president! During the controversy of the 2007 Kenyan presidential elections, as Barack Obama was beginning his USA presidential campaign, Kenyans would joke “I wonder who will have a Luo president first, the USA or Kenya?”. We should consider ourselves lucky that we beat out Kenya in that regard!

Edward (SOTENI Kenya Programme Manager), me, and Calvin (SVH-Ugenya Coordinator) in front of Granny's house

When we arrived to the Obama compound in Kogelo, it was evident that the family’s fame was generating some new income. A huge gate guarded the compound and a series of police tents were set up for security just inside the entrance. Evidence of construction and new latrines (in expectation of busloads of tourists) were to be seen everywhere. We were shown the graves of Barack Hussein Obama, Sr, and Hussein Onyanga Obama by Sadiq, the half-brother of the President. After a brief wait, Granny came out, looking like a very typical Kenyan woman (old t-shirt, long skirt, and headscarf) and chatted with us. Opondo translated the Kiluo to English while the giddy Americans asked questions (“How has life changed since the election?” “Does the President like ugali?”). She is a strong, healthy woman (87 years old!) who was gracious and jovial with her guests. And she indulged us many rounds of photos, which was generous of her, considering the compound receives an estimated 600 visitors every day.